The battery box from the original car was not going back in. It was starting to rust a bit and I wanted a more elegant solution. I removed the rust and treated the spot to stop the spread of rust. This pieces is made of Aluminum and is powder coated. I could have had something built but this is a elegant solution for $85.
After taking a long look at this set up I did not like seeing all of the computers visible in the passenger floor. Even though I built a nice board to connect everything to; I wasn’t completely happy with the location. The engine harness work really opened my eyes to what was available from a real estate point of view under all the wiring on the firewall. Since I no longer required the distributor transistor Box I could remove it and that freed up enough space to mount both the ECU and the Wideband O2 sensor box. It took a little maneuvering but it went in without an issue. If you remember from my previous posts I am using Velcro to fasten the ECU and O2 sensor to the board. I am using the same high strength Velcro on the firewall. If my Velcro solution does not work I can create a strap mount. The transistor box mounting points are still there, I could mount the ECU to the car with hard mounts. Right now the Velcro works just fine.
Furthermore, mounting the ECU/O2 on the firewall also gets the wiring higher so it is no longer in the floorboard. Reducing this make the car look more “stock”. The only thing I couldn’t and didn’t want to relocate was the Haltech Fuse/Relay box. This is in a location right below the relays and is easily accessible and it’s important it stays there.
After spending hours and hours of figuring out the factory harness and failing to get anything to happen I decided on Saturday (21 March 2015) to take the engine harness apart. I wanted to remove all of the original electrical points at the distributor and loads of connectors at the alternator, regulator, and shunt. This took me about 4 hours to sort through everything and get it all retaped and back in the car. The underhood looks much cleaner.
The result to me looks so much better and cleaner. All of the gauges are back in play accept the voltage gauge. The new Alternator has a four wire connector so I will have to sort out this wiring as well.
There is an outstanding problem with the starting circuit. The interlocking relay I removed had the connection to the starter in it. I will have to add a new relay or at least wire it from the key. Right now the circuit according to the wiring schematic goes to a wire I have removed. This is something I will have to sort out and add another relay.
I mounted the ECU in the floorboard on a plate along with the O2 sensor. I used Velco to hold everything to the metal panel. When I redo the inside and get the dynomat installed I will mount it to the firewall directly. The fuse panel went in nicely underneath the factory fuse panel. It is coming along nicely. I have to finish the in car pieces like the fuel pump and the other bits but I should be able to start getting the car ready in the next few days.