While the guys in CT work on finishing up the harness there are still quite a few little odds and ends that need to be buttoned up before we start the car and drive it for any length of time.
A lot of whats left is due to the fact I cant get the car high enough off the ground to perform the work. To rectify that predicament amazon delivered two sets of 12″ Race Ramps. This will allow me to get the car about 19″ in the air and make working underneath it much easier. The hard fuel lines need to come down so they can be flared and fuel nuts installed. This way the car is back to hard lines front to back.
From rebuild the oil pan has leaked. It has been the bane of my existence and really irritates me that after all the money spent it leaks. To be fair the pan is larger and did not have the compression bar that goes along the lower edge of the pan. The competition gasket is what everyone who knows told me to buy and it should fix the problem. I have to pull the compression bar and oil pick up from the 260 motor as I don’t have it from the 280 motor that is in the car now. So I will have to drop the pan. Fit a new gasket and re-install it once MSA gets the gasket in. They told me the 21st of this month the pan should be back in-stock. I purchased the felpro gasket just in case and it is sitting in my office.
The rest of the wiring has to be completed for the new alternator. This includes the distribution block and the few leads that need to be run. The original OEM Fuse-able links still need to be removed and the new box screwed into place. That is not a huge job but something that needs doing. I also have to determine what wiring is needed from the OEM harness to the fuse panel so that section can be fused as well.
Last but certainly not least the proper clips to hold the emergency brake cables to the mounts are on their way with the gaskets. I thought that perhaps my car would not need the cables swapped from side to side but I was wrong. They need to be shortened. and the swap seems to be the best method. Something else I will have to take care of before we can drive the car safely.
Wiring of the harness has been coming along. It has been a slow going process and figured the pros who build these things day in and day out might be worth talking to. Yuri at Wiring Specialties has been great at walking me through this process. The first thing Yuri did for me was create the coil pack harness. After seeing the picture we discussed working the rest of the harness for me so it all looks like it was built by the pros. Yuri told me he was a Haltech harness guy and makes them for Haltech in Australia. That made me feel better about boxing up my $580 harness and sending it with the pins and connectors up to Connecticut so the guys up at Wiring Specialties could work some of their magic.
I am hopeful what I get back will be better than anything I could do and it will be ready to install and get this car started. It has been almost a year since the Z had a heartbeat and it wants to run now. Spring is the best time to drive the Z and I can feel it in the air. This harness will be the final large project to get the car running.
Borrowed from HybridZ forums: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/100127-do-i-have-to-hoist-my-engine-to-replace-oil-pan-gasket/
Just want to note that I surveyed the archives and found all the hints for removal of oil pan while the engine is in the car BEFORE I attempted to do this on my 1974 260Z (Early) to replace a leaky gasket. And I must report, once you know the tricks, it is a very simple process requiring no removal of crossmember or jacking of engine. Since the hints were scattered in several posts, I thought I would take you through the process with all hints in one place:
1. Jack car up on crossmember and block it there. Even better, I slid ramps under the front wheels (the car is too low to drive up them). This gave me plenty of working room, and was much safer than jack stands.
2. Drain oil. Remove dipstick.
3. Remove all pan bolts. Note that there are two different-length bolts used on the pan. The longer ones go through the angled metal “spacers” or whatever they are on rear sides of pan.
4. Remove bottom two bolts in the tranny bell housing. The pan will hang up on them otherwise.
5. On my car (76 280Z), there was a small “anti-torque” thing on the steering rack. It’s put together with a U-clamp like you’d find on an exhaust clamp, and is there I guess to keep the rack from twisting. Anyway, mine was situated at the driver’s side of the rack. It’s in the way for lowering pan. It’s simple to loosen it and either remove it or (as I did) simply slide it to the other end out of the way.
6. Knock pan loose with rubber mallet. After 20+ years, mine was almost ‘welded’ on and had to be pried loose with screwdriver, which actually bent one corner before it would bust loose. You may have to go this way, too, but try to do it only as last resort. Straightening small bends in pan rim is no big deal.
7. Loosen the two 12mm bolts on the oil pickup. They’re on the driver’s side about halfway down the block. Be careful not to damage the thin gasket. You don’t have to actually remove this piece, but I did so to clean it up and replace the gasket.
8. Once the pan is loose, you can get a flashlight and see where your rod journals are situated. The pan will not come out unless the front journals (or more accurately, the crank counterweights in front) are rotated up into the engine. So you need to get your 27mm socket on the crank snout and turn with a big ratchet or breaker bar. (I meant to see where this was compared to TDC, but forgot.)
9. Once the frontmost counterweights are up inside engine, the pan will slide back, down and out. It’s a tight fit and takes a bit of jiggling, but it will make it.
10. To install, “reverse the procedure”. If you’ve removed the oil pickup, screw it very loosely into position BEFORE you slide the pan on. Once the pan is back in position, don’t forget to tighten the oil pickup bolts before you start in on the pan bolts.
I tried sticking the pan gasket on with sticky sealer, but you have to wiggle everything around so much, that it still came loose. It’s okay. You can fudge it around when the pan is in position, just be patient and make sure all the screws are indeed going through the gasket. Finally, do NOT overtighten pan bolts. I think they spec out at 7ftlbs. The pan gasket I used was so thick and squishy that I had to make 3-4 passes around with a small torque wrench before they would ‘hold’ torque. Also note that there are two or three bolts on the passengers side under the crossmember that you’ll have to do with a box end, as you can’t get a socket on them.
11. Don’t forget to put oil back in the engine!
The ECU needed to be mounted and a single plate seemed to be the easiest solution for the Haltech gear and the Tachmatch.
Ace hardware had a selection of steel that would serve the purpose. The 18X24 24gauge steel was cut down to match the floorboard and firewall.
Undercoat was chosen to protect the steel from rusting. This may not be the best choice and a trip to the powder coater would finish this piece off nicely.
I used high strength Velcro to use as a mounting device to the plate. This works very well and secures everything to the plate. Wire clamps will be used once I get everything mounted up.