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Wiring Upgrades

Christmas in November as the parts from CE Auto Electric Supply arrived. This will provide all the power and grounding solutions I need for under the hood. This has got to be the single biggest improvement to the Datsun Z car.
This car is horrible for chasing grounding issues and lacking enough power to run the car the way it should.
The wire and 120 AMP Alternator should take care of the Z’s electrical needs.
The electric fans were posing a problem for me with the new ECU. Tony answered all my questions and came up with his Dual Electric Fan solution that should provide enough juice to the dual fans.
Working with Tony Candela was an absolute breeze. He was very responsive and answered all of my questions. After I paid him for the wiring I swear he had everything customs made and in the mail within 24 hours. Its very rare to see customer service like this anymore. He provides a great product at a very competitive price. His attention to detail is evident in every piece of wire. I will definitely do business with Tony in the future.  Check out his website in the left Storefront links section.

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IAC and MAP Bracket

This is version 3 and the final version of the bracket to mount the Idle Air Controller (IAC) and the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor. This will allow me to reuse the factory holes on the firewall to attach these two devices. I should be able to bolt this straight to the firewall tomorrow.

The bracket is made of 2″ Aluminum Angle. I measured, drilled and tapped all the holes to accept M6X1MM Bolts.

Everything will be held together with Locktite and attached to the car with the factory bolts.

MFB1

Wiring New Electrical Circuits

There are quite a few new circuits to be added to the car to support all the new Fuel Injection add-on’s. Because of the additional load requirements of the car I have installed a larger Alternator. This has proven to be an interesting feat. There was quite a bit of wiring, voltage regulator, shut that had to be removed from the car.

I was looking for a solution that would allow me to remove the factory fusible links and put in a more modern appliance. I had to go to England to get the part I wanted. It should be here in the next week or so. This will allow me to upgrade the link to the original fuse box, power the ECU, power the new flame thrower headlights and finally the cooling fans.

All of this new wiring required me to work up a new wiring schematic for this particular job. It will help me with material and routing the wires to where they need to go.

EDIT: 11/17/2014
I took the wire lengths and Eyelet Sizes in Parenthesis.
Positive Side:
Alternator (5/16)-> Distribution Block (5/16)         2Ga 5Feet
Battery (3/8) -> Starter (3/8)                                                2Ga 2Feet
Distribution Block (5/16) -> Battery (3/8)                   2Ga 2Feet
Distribution Block (1/4) -> Headlight Relays             8Ga 5Feet
Distribution Block (1/4) -> Dual Electric Fans           8Ga 5Feet
Distribution Block -> Haltech ECU                                  Included Power Harness

Negative Side:
Alternator (5/16) -> Starter (3/8)                                     2Ga 2Feet
Battery (3/8) -> Engine Ground (3/8)(Starter)         2Ga 3Feet
Battery (3/8) -> Chassis Ground                                       8Ga 2Feet

Miscellaneous Parts:
Optima 8003-151 34R REDTOP                                      1Ea
Military Battery Terminals                                                    2Ea
Anti-Corrosion Fiber Washers                                           2Ea
Hella Weatherproof Relays                                                   4Ea
Deutsch 4-Pin Connector Set (Electric Fans)            1Ea
Terminals for Cables

260Z New Electrical Connections