Well after 14 months the car finally has a heartbeat. My oldest son really helped me get the car running. It took us some trial and error to get it done but we were successful getting it started tonight. Everything went well then after about 10 minutes of running the oil filter seal broke and blew oil all over. It’s ok it didnt dampen our spirits.
Spent lots of time troubleshooting the wiring, voltage, resistance, spark plug wires, coil packs, spark plugs, CAS device trying to figure out why I was not getting spark. This was the majority of the last weekends activities.
Yesterday, the good people at Autozone suggested a spark tester to see for certain if the coil was firing. So after 20 hours of work troubleshooting every wire in the ignition system and getting frustrated with the harness the problem was the timing light itself. This is a $185 Innova 5568 which gave up the ghost after 3 uses. That was the most frustrating item throughout this entire process. A friend loaned me a cheap Harbor Freight timing light and it worked like a champ. Very unhappy with the Innova 5568 piece of equipment. Quality is not in the price tag anymore; unless you buy it from Snap On.
I have the computer lined up the way I thought it should start but it turns out I was wrong. It is turning over very nice now but the following instructions have to be followed to truly get the timing corrected.
From Matt at Haltech:
Here are very easy ways to work this out with almost zero mathematics involved. Make sure the battery is good and fully charged before starting the procedure.
1. Disable the injectors in your Fuel Setup
2. Lock the Timing, you can pick any angle to lock it at so long as you have a reference. I can see your degree marking on the front cover, so pick any value that corresponds to any one of them. 10BTDC for example.
3. Set the trigger angle to 60, we will fine adjust this later.
4. Crank the engine and look for the timing marks with a timing light. Adjust the tooth offset until you are within 10deg (1-tooth) of your timing mark. The tooth offset is now found.
5. The engine should be startable now, so Enable the injectors and fire it up.
6. Adjust the trigger angle until the timing lines up perfectly on 10BTDC.
7. If you find the timing is moving with changes in RPM, enable the Variable Trigger Angle and use this map to fill out different triggers angles at different RPM to keep the timing aligned.
8. When you are all done, disable the Timing Lock.
This process work for all engines and trigger types that have tooth offset as an adjustment.
We are getting closer with each passing day. I wish I had a full time helper but we have other things like Ham Radio, Boy Scouts, STEM Club. Why can’t we just be grease monkeys?
First, a rant, about the software and upgrade procedures. The instructions are very good for the initial set up. Being a computer person when I see a check for updates or update firmware I would assume it would go out to the internet and query a database and update like all other modern applications. The Haltech ECU/Logging Application does no such thing. There was an issue with the CAN Bus O2 Sensor. The ECU flashed it was there and then it would disappear. The Haltech Forums said a firmware upgrade. What the heck? I already clicked the button. No, you have to download a full version off the website and then load it.
Once the firmware was upgraded things started progressing much better. The computer was able to see all the sensors, Wideband O2 and the TPS. So far so good. I went back through Tuning Fundamentals at the HP Academy. Very good refresher to get me back into that frame of mind.
The firing order, engine displacement and all the other stuff got programed no sweat. The good folks at RC Engineering provided the Injector Dead Time requirements for the injectors. Each day is closer to getting it started. The base fuel map and timing is enough to get it started. The next step is to get the ECU/Motor timing in sync.
I have spent the last few days (weeks) working on getting all the wiring done. I have been back side deep in 40 year old wiring and tape. The best part is I got more familiar with the wiring of the 260Z and realized I want to redo all of it.
The volt gauge looks good in the car. This thing is better than the AMP meter for sure. I am hopeful that the fuel gauge works as well.
The computer fired up first time with no issue so that was good news. The bad news is the wide band was not immediately recognized. The Haltech website says to update the firmware. I will try that tomorrow then hopefully I can get the ECU to recognize the CAN wide band.
Once I get the wide band recognized; I will finish prepping the ECU and get the timing set. I have a feeling I am getting close to actually starting the car. Making good progress and moving on to tuning is very exciting.